Axon download bfb

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And we launched ExecMode to help organizations solve really ugly technical challenges. Last Modified From To. Reset Search Submit Search. This will be dependent on the project and its geometries, and the function of the part once its been printed. Fill Pattern: there are 4 to choose from, and the most left hand side is the newest provided by Axon. Its quick and efficient, granted, it doesnt look as cool as the hexagons, but the structure of the prints are very good with this infill.

Using this will also speed up the print whilst using as little filiament as nessesary. Speed: Default is set as 1, this will produce a tidy print. For small or complicated geometries it may be required to be slowed to 0. For a quicker print, it can be set to 1. Use 3 if your really want a quick outcome and the quality doesnt matter too much. This setting has knock on effects with the extruder motor, gearing and print head as they all work together to create the perfect print!

Thin Wall: Activate thin wall to have the machine print one peramiter loop opposed to the default 3, this is quicker but your model can take a hit on rigidiity. Advanced Settings: Extra skins; again, this sets the amount of paremeter loops per layer, the default I think is 3, click the thin walls button and the result is 0. For really rigid parts, set to 3, 4 or 5! Number of surfaces: This is the amount of surfaces on the base and top of the model, depending on the geometry ths can be set frrom 1 to 3, or 4 or 5!

The type of model and your requirements will determin the amount of layers. Once the data is set, hit the build button! Once done this could take some time, so grab yourself a 10 mins away from the pc, have a stretch it gives you an estimated printing time, cost of material and overall weight. Take a note of these as once you click the screen they will disapear forever!

Once you click it, you get the toolpath of your model. Select the view tab, and deselect the 'view all layers' button. It is sticky enough and heat resistant, which is important in the following steps. But before you go out and buy tape, read on. Glas seems to be the better solution. If the room is too cold or has a draft, the cooling ABS parts will shrink during the build, generating a warped object at best, or a total mess in the printer if the printhead jams into the warped object and rips it of the platform.

The build platform in the BFB Touch must be heated to reduce warping to a minimum and to improve object stickyness.

Using the aluminum platform mentioned above, I stuck a Watts silicone heating pad under plate. The silicone mat heats the platform to any temperature quickly and makes sure that the layers that are already printed do not contract and ruin the rest of the print. Well, now we have a heated build platform, but we must constantly measure the temperature and switch the heating off before it gets too hot.

The solution is a temperature control module that runs on mains voltage and switches the heating mat on and off with a high-power relais. The mat I ordered has a hole in the middle which is great for mounting the temperature feeler. The temperature module is relatively small and fits into the plexi outer shell. By solving this problem, we created yet another problem.

The build platform contains a magnet that triggers the Z end stop switch. When the platform heats up, the magnet changes its field, causing the reed switch to react too late, messing up z calibration.

The solution is relatively straight forward: the reed switch is moved to the back right vertical column, and the magnet is glued on top of the z stage bearing.

A new pair of wires must be routed from the main board. This would not work with the sandwitch board thanks to the warping of the build platform.

For the aluminium platform, this is a great solution. Although this works sufficiently, some of the tape needs to be reglued frequently.

I am currently trying to use the glass from a picture frame. Glass is sufficiently sticky when hot. The Z calibration can be a bit off sometimes. In that case, the extruder can hit the platform, depressing the springs.

Unfortunately, while the platform is springy, the bolts holding the platform are not, and the extruder head can ram into the bolt, ruining the print early on, or even ruining the extruder. Again, the solution is painfully simple: drill the thread out of the front round piece.

Then, mount the front bolt to the build platform and counter it with a disk and a self-securing nut. The spring and washer go in the same place as before. A second washer and self-securing nut the goes under the round mounting point.

Now that the bolt is connected with the platform instead of the Z crossbar, it has become spring loaded as well and your extruders are safe. Why not use the heat from the build platform to also heat the build chamber?

I cut three little doors from acryllic and mounted them with hinges and a little magnetic snapper. The breeze stays out and the build stays warm, avoiding pretty much all warping. When I first used the machine it was extremely unreliable. Pretty much every model was ruined when the the machine reset itself 30 to 40 minutes into the build. Something was causing the CPU to reset randomly. The problem seemed to be caused by the revolving thread in the extruder, rubbing against the ABS and causing static electricity, which would eventually unload via the stepper wiring into the CPU.

I added a metallic grounded tab that touches the extruder axle and routes all electricity to the chassis, reliably avoiding any shocks to the electronics board.

This design oversight ruined a trade show that I was trying to do. The USB plug is positioned all the way at the front of the machine. Any USB stick protrudes from the chassis and can easily be ripped out. The easy solution is to use tiny USB sticks. The elegant solution would be a rerouting of the plug into a protected position. The crude solution is a metal bar that keeps operators from hitting the stick. This is a major issue.

PLA filament dries out quickly and tends to snap easily deep inside the flexpipes that are routed through the machine. The rounting changes direction multiple times, generating a torsion load that makes snapping even more likely. Instead of fitting tiny spools of filament into the body of the machine, I now use larger spools and rounte the flexpipes through the table top, reducing the amount of bending and torsion, reducing the risk of breaking.

I also tried various sprays to make it easier for the filament to glide through the flexpipe. Not sure if that improved anything. Since I have now much more space for the spools, I plan to lasercut air-tight spool cartridges and equip them with humidity-collecting gel. This should help the filament stay dry, not sucking humidity from the air, and reducing the tendency to snap. Now we can not completely eliminate the risk of filament breaking.